How do we wait the litters? In what circumstances the puppies are born in our kennel?
The 1st step that our dogs are made to be „prepared” to be parents. This means not only to reach the appropriate age, but they have to pass tests and exams which are mainly not bad or uncomfortable to them, but usually joyful tasks. The most uncomfortable ones are the joint tests, as the hip, shoulder and elbow tests are in anaesthesia, and after the artificial „sleeping” they can have nausea or vomiting. This is why sometimes our breeding dog has „just” hip test, as if the 1st X-ray image is not good quality has to be repeated, then we do not prefer to prolong the anaesthesia with stronger medications, if there is no suspicion of shoulder or elbow problem that are extreme rare at mudi breed. But patella test takes 1 minute and it is painless, so as we are more experienced in breeding, we ask the vet who makes the hip test, to do the patella test also. These examinations are performed when the dogs are around 1,5-2 years old, and at the same time breeding exam is passed, and usually before that herding instinct test is passed, too. Those dogs who belong to me (live with me) also pass BH exam, which is the official accompanying dog exam. This is not difficult with a potentially working dog even to a not very talented handler like me and a good test for the basic obedience knowledge for the future life together and also useful at the shows, if the dog knows how to behave.
In the mean time we go to dogschool (started with puppy dog school) and try to participate at shows as successful, as it is possible. And if all these are passed, the next step is choosing the pair. We plan the litters well in advance usually we put our plans up to the homepage 1 year in advance to let the future owners able to get information in time. Sometimes we have small changes as life sometimes makes tricks, but this is a good basis to everyone for being informed. At the litter planning we always have basic breeding purpose, beside the more genetical variability, we try to have very beautiful or highly talented sporty puppies. This is why -to have genetically variable dogs-, we rarely repeat litters, rarely use line breeding (though the temptation is big, as in our 1 line breeding litter, Litter D we had extremely beautiful puppies). We try to use “stranger” studs, not always our dogs. If we have found the “real” one, we start the negotiation with the owner about the details and after that the litter is put up to internet.
Before the mating we keep our eyes on the future mother from the beginning of the actual season. At day 9th we visit the vet, to take blood sample for progesterone test. Sometimes blood test is repeated to find the best day for mating. At the suggested time we visit the future dad. If we want to be sure, the mating is repeated 24 hours later. This is somehow almost always the mating is successful. Once it happened that a healthy female and a healthy male was mated, both already had puppies before, and after double trial it was not successful. We visited a specialist vet who told sometimes it happens that a female and a male are not matching and it is not worth to force nature, he suggested to choose another male. We did so, and had a very nice litter at the next time with our female.
The labour is expected app 63 days after mating (+/- 3 days). During the pregnancy the females live their usual active life with the small difference that big jumps are avoided. When the time is due, we watch the mom more carefully and when she tries to dig “nest” and becomes restless and nervous, sits up breathing fast, we are within a day. (I do not like measuring the temperature as the poor female has enough trouble without putting her anus a thermometer 3 times a day, and the temperature is waving sometimes, going down, but back again, so not 100% sure that the temperature is down, the pups are coming.
At the labour the family is ready, also the vet is called that she will be needed in the next days, and her phone number is in the table. Also honey milk, small scissors and thread, some disinfectant if we have to cut the umbilical cord. Sometimes an oxytocin injection is needed if there is a prolonged labour and lots of babies with a tired mom.
If the babies are born, we separate a place with indoor fence in the living room, where the breeding box is, where the puppies stay with mom during the initial days, they hear the voices and sounds of the family from the beginning and the fence helps to be in peace nothing could disturb the mom. During the 1st day after labour the vet checks the mom and the little family.
The first 2 weeks are for peace and calmness. As after the 1st week they start to open their eyes, and explore the world more and more actively, the peace and quiet ends and the mini puppy dog party starts. The stimulating environment is very important at that time, many toys, giving them to the pups step by step if possible, to let them be able to try the new things, be able to get to know the colourful world. It is very important though, just to give the opportunity for trying and never force them. We never put the puppies somewhere to force to do something, just give them the opportunity. This is the start of the socialization and it is important to be continued at the owner without any “breaking” it is very bad if the owner is over protecting or just lazy and the “new” puppy is left out from the family life though any puppy illness could be taken home on the shoe sole, but the family will not stay at home for months just for safety...Those pups whose mom is regularly vaccinated have strong maternal immunity and this is used by our vaccinating system: 1st at week 7 and usually the 2nd is received at the owners, and after that the puppy can be taken among healthy other dogs. The 3rd is a combination after week 12, so until 1 year this gives secure immunity.
At the Mudi puppies it is ideal if they get to owners at week 8-10. After week 6 the breast feeding is more and more rare. They need more attention from the owner than mother’s care. At week 8-10 they are “real” puppies and the period between months 3 and 6 is the basis of the adult behaviour. Unfortunately at such a sensitive and clever breed it could harm a lot if the owner is overprotective or lazy. During this period we should pay attention of our little mudi, showing the world, step by step getting to know new situations, new people, new animals and places. It is absolutely not ideal if a mudi goes to the owner at week 15-16 and not goes to puppy dog school or to the outer world. This could make barky or more unfriendly as an adult, and it would take lots of energy to stop it later. This is why we emphasize to pay special attention to this life period and we happily give advices to the starter mudi owners. And also give a recommendation to all our puppy owners about this and of cause keep contact after the handover.
And also we can give an example of how to handle the “not so easy” regulations, if puppy can travel to owner at week 15-16, we suggest having trainer for the period from week 10 until the travelling. A little video about this early training of Zelda.
The 1st step that our dogs are made to be „prepared” to be parents. This means not only to reach the appropriate age, but they have to pass tests and exams which are mainly not bad or uncomfortable to them, but usually joyful tasks. The most uncomfortable ones are the joint tests, as the hip, shoulder and elbow tests are in anaesthesia, and after the artificial „sleeping” they can have nausea or vomiting. This is why sometimes our breeding dog has „just” hip test, as if the 1st X-ray image is not good quality has to be repeated, then we do not prefer to prolong the anaesthesia with stronger medications, if there is no suspicion of shoulder or elbow problem that are extreme rare at mudi breed. But patella test takes 1 minute and it is painless, so as we are more experienced in breeding, we ask the vet who makes the hip test, to do the patella test also. These examinations are performed when the dogs are around 1,5-2 years old, and at the same time breeding exam is passed, and usually before that herding instinct test is passed, too. Those dogs who belong to me (live with me) also pass BH exam, which is the official accompanying dog exam. This is not difficult with a potentially working dog even to a not very talented handler like me and a good test for the basic obedience knowledge for the future life together and also useful at the shows, if the dog knows how to behave.
In the mean time we go to dogschool (started with puppy dog school) and try to participate at shows as successful, as it is possible. And if all these are passed, the next step is choosing the pair. We plan the litters well in advance usually we put our plans up to the homepage 1 year in advance to let the future owners able to get information in time. Sometimes we have small changes as life sometimes makes tricks, but this is a good basis to everyone for being informed. At the litter planning we always have basic breeding purpose, beside the more genetical variability, we try to have very beautiful or highly talented sporty puppies. This is why -to have genetically variable dogs-, we rarely repeat litters, rarely use line breeding (though the temptation is big, as in our 1 line breeding litter, Litter D we had extremely beautiful puppies). We try to use “stranger” studs, not always our dogs. If we have found the “real” one, we start the negotiation with the owner about the details and after that the litter is put up to internet.
Before the mating we keep our eyes on the future mother from the beginning of the actual season. At day 9th we visit the vet, to take blood sample for progesterone test. Sometimes blood test is repeated to find the best day for mating. At the suggested time we visit the future dad. If we want to be sure, the mating is repeated 24 hours later. This is somehow almost always the mating is successful. Once it happened that a healthy female and a healthy male was mated, both already had puppies before, and after double trial it was not successful. We visited a specialist vet who told sometimes it happens that a female and a male are not matching and it is not worth to force nature, he suggested to choose another male. We did so, and had a very nice litter at the next time with our female.
The labour is expected app 63 days after mating (+/- 3 days). During the pregnancy the females live their usual active life with the small difference that big jumps are avoided. When the time is due, we watch the mom more carefully and when she tries to dig “nest” and becomes restless and nervous, sits up breathing fast, we are within a day. (I do not like measuring the temperature as the poor female has enough trouble without putting her anus a thermometer 3 times a day, and the temperature is waving sometimes, going down, but back again, so not 100% sure that the temperature is down, the pups are coming.
At the labour the family is ready, also the vet is called that she will be needed in the next days, and her phone number is in the table. Also honey milk, small scissors and thread, some disinfectant if we have to cut the umbilical cord. Sometimes an oxytocin injection is needed if there is a prolonged labour and lots of babies with a tired mom.
If the babies are born, we separate a place with indoor fence in the living room, where the breeding box is, where the puppies stay with mom during the initial days, they hear the voices and sounds of the family from the beginning and the fence helps to be in peace nothing could disturb the mom. During the 1st day after labour the vet checks the mom and the little family.
The first 2 weeks are for peace and calmness. As after the 1st week they start to open their eyes, and explore the world more and more actively, the peace and quiet ends and the mini puppy dog party starts. The stimulating environment is very important at that time, many toys, giving them to the pups step by step if possible, to let them be able to try the new things, be able to get to know the colourful world. It is very important though, just to give the opportunity for trying and never force them. We never put the puppies somewhere to force to do something, just give them the opportunity. This is the start of the socialization and it is important to be continued at the owner without any “breaking” it is very bad if the owner is over protecting or just lazy and the “new” puppy is left out from the family life though any puppy illness could be taken home on the shoe sole, but the family will not stay at home for months just for safety...Those pups whose mom is regularly vaccinated have strong maternal immunity and this is used by our vaccinating system: 1st at week 7 and usually the 2nd is received at the owners, and after that the puppy can be taken among healthy other dogs. The 3rd is a combination after week 12, so until 1 year this gives secure immunity.
At the Mudi puppies it is ideal if they get to owners at week 8-10. After week 6 the breast feeding is more and more rare. They need more attention from the owner than mother’s care. At week 8-10 they are “real” puppies and the period between months 3 and 6 is the basis of the adult behaviour. Unfortunately at such a sensitive and clever breed it could harm a lot if the owner is overprotective or lazy. During this period we should pay attention of our little mudi, showing the world, step by step getting to know new situations, new people, new animals and places. It is absolutely not ideal if a mudi goes to the owner at week 15-16 and not goes to puppy dog school or to the outer world. This could make barky or more unfriendly as an adult, and it would take lots of energy to stop it later. This is why we emphasize to pay special attention to this life period and we happily give advices to the starter mudi owners. And also give a recommendation to all our puppy owners about this and of cause keep contact after the handover.
And also we can give an example of how to handle the “not so easy” regulations, if puppy can travel to owner at week 15-16, we suggest having trainer for the period from week 10 until the travelling. A little video about this early training of Zelda.